Vivienne Westwood: The Queen of Punk and The Duchess of Design

Vivienne Westwood! The name alone conjures up images of safety pins, tartan, and a rebellious spirit that could make even the most reserved librarian want to stage dive into a mosh pit. But who is this fashion icon, how did she become the queen of punk? well you're about to find out, as we take a in depth journey through her life, her iconic collections, and the reason those original pieces are now more valuable than your grandma’s secret cookie recipe!

From the Streets of Derbyshire, to the Catwalks of London
Born on April 8, 1941, in the charming town of Glossop, Derbyshire, Vivienne was the daughter of a greengrocer and a teacher. As a child, she was more interested in drawing and crafting than in traditional studies—perhaps a sign that she was destined to revolutionize the fashion world. After a few detours, including a stint as a teacher and a jewellery maker, she finally found her way into the fashion scene in the 1970s.

The hippie movement was the most popular fashion movement during the 1960s, however this didn't inspire the young Vivienne Westwood, while the hippies were busy spreading peace, love, and tie-dye at music festivals, Westwood was more intrigued by the idea of turning the fashion world upside down with a dash of chaos and a whole lot of attitude.

Vivienne was drawn to punk’s raw energy, where safety pins were jewellery and ripped clothing was a badge of honour—talk about a wardrobe with a side of rebellion! The punk movement was like a rebellious teenager flipping off the establishment, while the hippies were more like that chill aunt who just wants to braid your hair and hand you a breakfast bar.

Plus, Westwood was captivated by the idea of fashion as a statement, a way to tell the world, “I’m here, I’m loud, and I don’t care if you like it!” The punk scene was all about DIY attitudes and making your own rules, while the hippie movement was a bit more, shall we say, harmonious. So, while the hippies were busy finding themselves in a cloud of incense, Westwood was busy redefining what it meant to be truly fashionable—and a little bit fearless!

Let It Rock!
"Let It Rock"—the legendary boutique that Vivienne Westwood opened in 1971 with her then-partner Malcolm McLaren! A tiny shop on London’s King's Road, where the air was thick with the scent of rebellion and the sound of glam rock was practically oozing from the walls. It was like stepping into a time machine that took you straight to the heart of the 1970s, but with a twist of outrageous fashion that could make even David Bowie raise an eyebrow!

This shop was all about celebrating the rock 'n' roll culture, and it was the place where Vivienne turned her creative visions into reality. The decor was a funky collision of punk aesthetics and rockabilly flair, with clothes that looked like they were made for a band that was about to take the stage. Think leather jackets, tight pants, and enough sequins to make a disco ball jealous!

The shop didn't just stop at clothes; it was practically a social hub for the burgeoning punk scene. It was the kind of place where you might bump into a future rock legend or overhear a lively debate about the merits of leather versus denim. It had that electric atmosphere where everyone felt like they were part of something monumental, and Westwood was the visionary at the helm, ready to change the world one outrageous outfit at a time.

Eventually, "Let It Rock" evolved into "Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die," and then into "SEX," where Westwood's designs would truly take the punk movement by storm. But the legacy of "Let It Rock" remains—like the first chord of a great rock anthem, it set the stage for a revolution in fashion that celebrated individuality, creativity, and a hefty dose of mischief.

In 1978, the collapse of the Sex Pistols marked a significant turning point in the punk movement, and it had a profound impact on Vivienne herself, who had been an integral part of the band's rise to fame. As the band disbanded amidst internal conflicts and a chaotic lifestyle, the raw energy and revolutionary spirit that defined punk began to wane, leaving Westwood at a crossroads. While the band’s disintegration could have signaled the end of her fashion venture rooted in punk culture, it instead propelled her to explore new creative avenues. Westwood channeled the angst and disillusionment of the era into her fashion designs, allowing her to evolve beyond the confines of punk into a broader exploration of British identity and historical references. This transition not only solidified her status as a pioneering designer but also demonstrated her resilience in the face of a shifting cultural landscape, proving that true creativity can thrive even amid chaos.
In 1980 the shop was renamed 'Worlds End' which is still the name in use today.

Iconic Collections: A Punk’s Playground
If Vivienne Westwood’s designs were a playlist, they’d be a mix of The Sex Pistols, David Bowie, and a sprinkle of Shakespearean drama. She’s known for her innovative use of traditional British fabrics, like tartan and tweed, with a touch of leather and metal reimagined in ways that make you question your entire wardrobe. So lets explore her iconic collections starting from 1981....

The Pirate Collection
Vivienne Westwood's Pirate Collection, unleashed in 1981, was like a swashbuckling adventure where fashion meets rebellion on the high seas! Imagine donning ruffled shirts that billow like sails, jackets that could make even the most notorious pirate stop and stare and trousers that are so daring they practically shout, "Plunder me, I dare you!" Westwood took the classic elements of pirate garb—think corsets and flamboyant capes—and gave them a punk twist, transforming the very image of the pirate into a runway-ready icon. With tartan fabrics and asymmetrical cuts that would make any fashionista feel like the captain of their own ship, this collection was all about breaking the rules and sailing into uncharted style waters.

Witches
Vivienne Westwood's Witches Collection, launched in 1983, was like jumping into a spellbinding fashion coven where every outfit has a magical twist and of course, a punk attitude! Picture this: flowing skirts that swirl like cauldrons brewing a pot of creativity, corseted bodices that would make even the most daring sorceress feel empowered, and whimsical hats that seem to scream, "I’m here to brew up some style!" This collection embraced the enchanting idea of the witch as a symbol of feminine power and rebellion, transforming traditional garments into pieces that felt both ethereal and edgy. With rich fabrics, dark color palettes, and intricate details, Westwood concocted a potion of fashion that celebrated individuality and self-expression. It’s as if she took the essence of fairy tales and gave them a punk makeover, inviting us to channel our inner magic while strutting our stuff like we’re on a runway in a haunted forest.

Portrait
Vivienne Westwood's Portrait Collection, unveiled in 1990, this collection was all about celebrating the grandeur of classic portraiture while giving it a cheeky punk twist, as if Mona Lisa had swapped her serene smile for a sassy pose in a corset. Imagine dresses that drape like the flowing robes of Renaissance royalty but are daring enough to make you feel like you could conquer a mosh pit straight after. With elaborate ruffles, striking colors, and silhouettes that could make even the stuffiest aristocrat raise an eyebrow, Westwood invited us to wear our identities like a work of art. Each piece was a playful nod to the past, making you feel like a modern-day duchess ready to strut down the street—or perhaps the catwalk—to show off a bit of rebellion alongside that timeless elegance.

Café Society
Vivienne Westwood's Café Society Collection, launched in 1993; picture this, a glamorous Parisian café where the espresso is strong, and the fashion is even stronger! Imagine sipping your espresso while wearing a dress that looks like it was designed for a chic art heist—complete with draping that flows like a casual yet sophisticated conversation and prints that make you feel as if you’ve just walked out of a modern art installation. This collection cleverly blended high society elegance with a rebellious twist, featuring tailored suits that could easily transition from a gallery opening to a crazy night out. With whimsical accessories and a palette that danced between bold and subdued, Westwood invited us to embrace our inner bohemian while questioning the stuffy norms of the elite.

On Liberty
Vivienne Westwood's On Liberty Collection, unveiled in 1994, was a fashion revolution where British heritage meets punk spirit and decides to throw a tea party with a twist! Imagine wearing a dress that looks like it’s made from the most rebellious wallpaper you’ve ever seen, complete with bold prints and colors that could make even the Queen raise an eyebrow. Westwood took classic Liberty prints—those charming floral designs that scream “English garden”—and morphed them into something fabulously edgy, blending historical elegance with her signature punk flair. The collection cleverly challenges the norms of femininity, encouraging wearers to express their individuality while giving a cheeky nod to traditional British textiles.

Anglophilia
Showcased in 2002/03, Anglophilia is like a delightful love letter to all things British, sprinkled with just the right amount of cheeky punk charm! Imagine strutting around in outfits that scream, “I love my country, but I’m not afraid to shake things up a bit!” This collection was a playful homage to British culture, featuring everything from Union Jack motifs to Victorian-inspired silhouettes that made you feel like royalty on a rebellious mission. Imagine jackets that look like they were stolen from a dapper gentleman’s wardrobe, paired with skirts that have more flair than a double-decker bus on a joyride! With a mix of classic fabrics and bold designs, Westwood invited wearers to embrace their inner Anglophile while turning heads faster than you can say “God Save the Queen!”

Vivienne's Westwood's Last Two Collections, yet for me, two of the most interesting and important.

Propoganda
Vivienne Westwood's Propaganda Collection was not just a celebration of bold fashion; it was a clever fusion of art, activism, and punk spirit. Westwood used this collection to challenge conventional norms and provoke thought through her designs. The collection was marked by its use of eye-catching graphics, often featuring slogans that ranged from humorous to provocative, encouraging wearers to wear their beliefs proudly and not to be afraid. The garments themselves were a delightful mix of traditional tailoring and avant-garde shapes, blending high end fashion with street style in a way that only Westwood could. Think oversized T-shirts adorned with playful yet poignant prints, paired with skirts and trousers that had that unmistakable Westwood twist. The collection also often drew inspiration from historical references and subcultures, making it a rich tapestry of influences that showcased her love for both fashion history and contemporary issues.

Westwood’s use of the word "propaganda" was intentionally provocative, inviting a dialogue about the power of fashion as a form of expression and communication. By wearing her designs, individuals weren't just making a style statement; they were participating in a larger conversation about identity, society, and the role of art in activism. In essence, the Propaganda Collection was both a celebration of personal style and a rallying cry for social change, proving that fashion can indeed be a powerful vehicle for ideas and movements.

Unisex: Time to act
Vivienne Westwood's Unisex: Time to Act Collection was more than just a line of clothing; it was a bold manifesto that celebrated diversity and challenged the traditional notions of gender in fashion. Launched during a time when conversations around gender identity and expression were gaining greater visibility, Westwood embraced the idea that clothing should be a playground for everyone, regardless of gender.

The collection showcased a range of designs that were intentionally oversized and androgynous, allowing for versatile styling and comfort. With a playful mix of patterns, textures, and colors, each piece was designed to encourage creativity and personal expression. Westwood's signature punk influences were of course present, with elements like tartan, graphic prints, and rebellious silhouettes that gave the collection its distinctive edge.

One of the key messages behind the Unisex: Time to Act Collection was the urgent need for social and environmental awareness. Westwood, known for her activism, used this platform to advocate for pressing issues such as climate change and human rights, reminding us that fashion can once again be a vehicle for change. The collection featured slogans and motifs that echoed these themes, urging wearers to not only embrace their individuality but also take action for a better world.

By creating a unisex collection, Westwood challenged the fashion industry’s often rigid gender norms and invited everyone to participate in the conversation about identity and self-expression. She promoted the idea that fashion should be inclusive and accessible, encouraging people to wear what resonates with them, regardless of traditional gender associations, it’s fashion with a purpose, where every outfit becomes a statement of individuality and social consciousness!

Why Are Original Pieces So Valuable?

Why are those original Vivienne Westwood pieces now worth more than a small island? Well, let me explain....

1. Cultural Significance: Westwood didn’t just create clothes; she made history. Her designs are closely tied to the punk movement and British culture, making them significant artefacts of a transformative era.

2. Limited Availability: Much like that rare Pokémon you could never catch, original Westwood pieces are limited in numbers. She didn’t mass-produce like a factory assembly line cranking out widgets. Each piece is rare, which makes collectors swoon and wallets open wide!

3. Quality Craftsmanship: Westwood’s garments are known for their quality and unique construction. Each piece carries the mark of a designer who was not afraid to push boundaries, making them timeless treasures that were made to last and survive the heaviest of mosh pits.

4. Celebrity Endorsement: When celebrities like Kate Moss, the Sex Pistols, Madonna, Lady Gaga and even Harry Styles start wearing your designs, suddenly your creations are the hottest ticket in town. The resulting demand skyrockets the value of true, original pieces.

5. The Nostalgia Factor: Fashion, like music and hairstyles, tends to recycle itself. As trends come and go, the desire for authentic pieces from iconic designers only grows stronger. So, owning a piece of Westwood is like having a VIP pass to the history of fashion!

6. Timeless Trends: While trends come and go faster than you can say “fast fashion,” Westwood’s designs have a timeless quality. They’re like fine wine—better with age and perfect for impressing your friends at dinner parties.

Conclusion: A Legacy of Rebellion and Innovation
In a world filled with fast fashion and fleeting trends, Vivienne Westwood remains a beacon of rebellion and innovation. From her humble beginnings in Derbyshire to becoming a global fashion icon, her journey is a testament to the power of creativity and individuality.

Remember: fashion is not just about what you wear; it’s about making a statement, having a whole lot of fun whilst doing it with a little bit of rebellion sprinkled into the mix too - and no one did that quite like Vivienne Westwood! 

R.I.P Vivienne Westwood - 08/04/1941 - 29/12/2022

I hope you enjoyed reading about the life of Vivienne Westwood, an incredible woman who changed our lives in many ways. My names James Broad (JB) and I hope you enjoyed this article. For more articles exploring some of the iconic figures or brands of our past and present, please hit the sign up button and follow me on my socials! 🤗